Letters:
Hand-Cut Versus Machine Cut
Trademark Jewelers hand-cut their
letters.
More and more common today are ultra-light bracelets
at unbelievable prices, many with unlimited letters. These pieces,
more likely than not, contain machined-cut letters. They are cut
into the bracelet with a spinning spindle leaving a deep smooth
"V" shape cut in the bracelet. Because the operator exerts no energy
in cutting the name, little if any attention is paid to the depth
of the cut, meaning the capital or taller lower-case letters going
from one side of the bracelet's edge to the other leaves a weakened
spot with two-thirds of the metal removed. Unfortunately, as the
bracelet is worn and bumped, it is at this spot the first enamel
will come out.
The hand-engraver , on the other hand, has to
rely on touch, vision, and controled pressure to cut the letter
and as such, no unnecessary metal is removed. The hand-engraver
removes the letter surface following the contours of the bracelet,
leaving equal depth throughout. The sides are straight up and down,
not tapered, leaving a nice straight wall to hold the enamel in
place. When the hand-engraver has gotten the depth required to hold
the enamel in place, he then walks (wriggles) his engraving tool
through the recessed areas, creating a textured finish for the molten
glass enamel to adhere to. It takes four times longer to cut a name
by hand than it does to cut it on a machine.
Take another look at Auntie's Hawaiian Heirloom
jewelry. You will see that the surface is indeed cracked and scuffed
from years of quality wear, but it hasn't come out, thanks to the
effort and craftsmanship of the hand-engraver that kept the enamel
where it belongs - - in the bracelet and not on the floor.
For More information: Glass
Enamel Vs Epoxy